Wind Rivers, August 13-21, 2011

Journal
Wind Rivers, August 13-21, 2011
Clyde, Terry, Dee, Nathan (Deet) Ray, Nan, Gary.
By Gary

Saturday 13
We collect in the lobby of the Best Western, Pinedale Wyoming. Also here are friends Bert and Marti who will help with the car shuttle.

We drive to the Elk Park trailhead about 20 miles and gain about 2000ft elevation. There are lots of cars in the lot, obviously a popular place to start a hike.

We're off! Pole Creek trail is very well worn and well used by both backpackers and horses and even a llama. Many people are carrying fishing poles. And many are wearing mosquito headnets. What are we getting ourselves in to?

We walk through pine forest and occasional alpine meadows to a nice view from Photographers point where we break for lunch. Soon after we leave Pole Creek trail for Highline trail and the terrain becomes more rugged. About 3pm we reach Hobbs Lake, our destination for the night.

It's a pretty lake surrounded by big lumpy granite outcrops. Nestled between the granite we find spaces for four tents, then hang out, cook and dine on top of a nearby ridge where a breeze helps with the mosquitoes. This year the snow pack was over 200% of normal and was slow to melt. That and a cool wet spring means the mosquito season started late and is still in full swing. We hope for a very cold night to freeze the little buggers.


Sunday 14
A slow steady rain in the morning. We wait before getting up until it stops and patches of blue sky appear. Once the sun is out the tents dry quickly and we're soon on the trail.

From Hobbs Lake we climb and descend much more than yesterday. The forests cease and we walk through meadows, boulder fields, and bare rock. At a nice overlook over Seneca Lake we break for lunch. There are many horses on the trail too and we have to step aside for them and for what they leave behind.

From Seneca Lake we have a big climb to almost 1100ft elev where the air is noticeably thinner, then down to Island Lake, our destination. There are several other groups here but it's a big lake and we're well spread out.


Monday 15
Today is a dayhike to Indian Pass, about 1200 ft. The morning begins cloudy but soon burns off to a beautiful sunny day. We follow the Titcomb Basin trail around our lake to the Indian Pass trail, and loose that within a few hundred feet. But the guidebook said it's not heavily used, so we continue. It's a lovely walk up a gorgeous valley beside a rushing stream.

The going gets tough where we have to scramble over some gigantic boulders. We pull out the map and realize we're way off the trail.

Clyde and Dee decide to turn back at this point, as they were'nt planning on going all the way anyway. Ray, Nathan, Terry, Nan and I find the trail and enjoy more hiking through stark barren alpine scenery. We cross snow fields, rock-hop through scree, skirt lakes and jump over snow-melt streams.

At 11370 ft we notice the weather has changed. There are dark ominous clouds to the west and the sun is no longer warming us. We stop for a snack and to review the situation. By the time snacks are done it is clear that the weather is moving in fast and the smartest choice is to turn back. A light rain begins to fall and we hear distant thunder as we descend. We meet two groups camped in this high valley. One of them is missing a member, so we keep a lookout for Caleb. The other group had just climbed Elephant Head, a prominent peak which we can also see from camp.

We often help each other over the difficult spots, and while helping Terry on the stepping stones over our last creek crossing in this valley, she slips and goes in thigh-deep. But I have a good grip on her hand and she's only in the ice-cold water for a second. We re-join the Titcomb Basin trail and can understand how we lost the Indian Pass trail this morning. The trail is rather indistinct near it's beginning and there are other trails going elsewhere.

A bit more rain is threatening but we make it back to camp and retreat to our tents while it passes and drops snow and hail on us. It's a short storm, and we re-join the others on a lovely big rock overlooking Island Lake and the Titcomb peaks for cooking and dinner. Nan and I are cooking together, but the others have each planned their own menus and meals. There is much sharing of extra food, water, stoves, and a small griddle.

Tuesday 16
Beautiful morning, not a cloud to be seen. A bit of frost on the ground and tents too. That should help with the mosquito population.

After breakfast we dayhike up Titcomb Basin. Wow. Magnificent scenery. Jagged peaks tower above us accented with snow. We are surrounded by crystal clear lakes and streams and wildflowers, and all above timberline. The wildflowers are prolific – buttercup, paintbrush, white columbine, a low white flower that grows in the marshes, others of white, yellow, magenta, and purple. We take lots of photos.

At the second lake Clyde, Ray and Dee turn back. The rest of us continue to where the rock climbers are camped for their assaults on the high peaks, including Gannet, the highest peak in Wyoming at 13809ft. The skies remain clear and deep blue all day.

Toward evening we watch two fly-fishermen catch and land a 20” cutthroat trout. We have front row seats for the show from our kitchen rock.


Wednesday 17
We leave Island Lake today and follow trails to Elbow Lake with full packs. The morning is beautiful and warms up quickly. There are many people at Fremont Crossing, where there is a bridge over the river. It's a good sized river here, as it drains all of Island Lake, Titcomb Basin, Indian Pass, Jean Lakes, plus minor ponds and streams.

From the crossing we climb and climb up to Lower Jean Lake. This string of lakes is all above timberline and we see trout in the lakes and some of the streams. With all the extra snow this year the lakes and streams are high. At one of our crossings some of our group change to sandals and wade the freezing cold water instead of rock-hopping. But then we have to cross back, and it's almost as bad a crossing. We should've stayed on the beginning side.

Lunch is on a big rock overlooking Upper Jean Lake, and there are trout in the stream right next to our rock. After the lakes we climb a pass at 11000 ft, all barren rock with views in every direction, including to the east – the back side of the west ridge that defines the Titcomb Basin.

Elbow Lake is very windy but there are almost no mosquitoes. There are also no trees, but we have snow patches not far from camp. As the sun sets the surrounding ridges turn rosy with alpine-glow.


Thursday 18
It's a short hike today, about 5.5 miles with no significant climbs. There is a shoulder of Sky Pilot peak very close to camp. Terry, Nathan and I climb it to it's 11200 ft summit and gain an outstanding view to the east to both sides of Titcomb Basin, the continental divide, a shoulder of Gannet Peak; to the south over Elbow Lake and Elbow Peak; and to the west down the Elbow Creek Valley and down to the plains. Pinedale is somewhere down there. Beyond the plains we see the snow-capped peaks of the Grosse Ventre range. The wind is blowing hard up here. I imagine it must be even stronger for those who are attempting Gannet and other 13000 ft peaks.

The other four went on ahead toward Summit Lake, and we descend and follow. It's a beautiful trail with beautiful weather through a barren rocky landscape accented with ponds and streams. We all meet up again at the trail junction near Summit Lake and after a leisurely lunch, head south to Borum Lake for the night. This lake is slightly warmer than Island Lake was (which was near freezing) so Nan and I take a very brief swim.

The wind has kept up all day, keeping the mosquitoes at bay. After dinner we have a fire as the wind becomes more inconsistent and the mozzies return. We see a moose across the lake and a mule deer comes down the trail.


Friday 19
Today we do an off-trail loop. After breakfast we walk around the end of the lake, over a small hill, and along Cutthroat Lake. Nan and Dee turn back at the lake, leaving Clyde, Nathan, Terry, Ray and myself. We follow our compasses and a map that Clyde has prepared over open land, skirting small hills and ponds for about two miles to intersect with an established trail heading east. We've seen lots of moose tracks, but along this section of trail there are tons of them. We can see for miles but spot no moose.

After a mile and a half on the trail we head south across country, which leads us to a steep downhill back to Boram Lake and to camp. Walking across this open land we can maintain almost the same speed as on the trail. We're accustomed to much more difficult off-trail hiking from experiences in the Smoky Mountains back east, and as a result get back to camp early and have a whole afternoon to while away. Some take naps,, others hang out and chat. In the evening the moose comes back down to the marsh at the far end of the lake.


Saturday 20
Up early and packed up to leave Boram. There is no wind this morning and the mosquitoes urge us onward.


Back up to Summit Lake and across the broad grassy plain it lies in. You could shoot a movie here of clashing medieval armies. After the plain we descend 2000ft to the Green River. There is spectacular scenery all the way with towering cliffs and pinnacles rising up above us and rushing streams below. All seen through tall pines and spruce. On a large boulder beside the trail we see a martin (in the weasel family) carrying a mouse. He's as curious about us as we are of him. There are huckleberries growing beside the trail too, and it's been a week since we've had fresh fruit.

We're hoping to find a campsite along the Green but it gets late before we do. A family hiking the other way tells us there is a beautiful campsite just a half mile ahead by a flowing stream. We go on, and stop after a half mile by a broad open bench by the river. Another hiker comes by and says 'yes, the stream is only half a mile ahead.' But we're all tired and this is a pretty spot by the river. The mosquitoes come out and drive us into our tents as soon as dinner is done.


Sunday 21
A good thunderstorm with lots of lightening and thunder comes through at dusk. Morning is chilly and foggy but the sunlight on the peaks is very picturesque. Our campsite is on a bench above the river and the valley is bounded by steep cliffs and spires, much like in Yosemite. Across the river is a grassy marshy plain which is only lacking in a herd of elk.

But the mosquitoes are bad here too once the day warms up. Further down the trail we find a mosquito-free spot to take a break. Below us are the Green Lakes, above us are mountains. The lakes and river are green from glacial flour, ground from rocks beneath the many glaciers in the hight peaks. The last few miles are hot with little shade. Bert and Marti meet us at the parking lot and we say good bye to a fun week in the Wind Rivers.