Journal
Troop 7, Petawawa River, Algonquin Provincial Park, Ontario.
July 11-19, 2010
Gary Hochgraf
Cast of characters:
Adults:
Vickie
Nan
Gary
Scouts:
Luke
Xavier
Hukyun
Logan
Sunday July 11, 3pm
Nan and I meet the rest of the crew at the designated parking lot in Ann Arbor, and after sorting out the last of the gear and responsibilities, we're off! We crossed into Canada at the Port Huron/Sarnia bridge, turned North at Toronto, and arrived at Tiffin Centre Conservation Area about 11pm. There's a group camping facility here and they were expecting us around 9 or 10. The gate is closed and there's nobody around! But there's a small parking lot ahead of the gate, so Nan and I pitch our tent and the others sleep in the cars. It's been a long drive with a few wrong turns, but we made it.
Monday July 12
Up at dawn in our parking lot, and there are many ripe red raspberries to be picked and eaten before we hit the road again. North, past Barrie, East at Huntsville, then we enter the southern part of the park. But we can't get our permits here. Onward and into Petawawa for a bite of lunch, then back into the park through it's eastern border along a sometimes paved, sometimes dirt road with construction. At Sand Lake gate we get permits for the vehicles but not for camping. We also meet our shuttle here and transfer our stuff into the truck. We drop the cars off a bit further down the road at Access Point 21, then back to the gate, and the shuttle takes us out of the park, West on 17, the Trans Canada Highway, through rain, to another entry station where we finally get our permits, and to the put-in at Access Point 27.
It's 4:30pm and raining lightly. The plan was to paddle to a campsite across the lake, but it's late and raining and there's a campsite right here. The shuttle takes us to the campsite and we pitch our tents as the rain ends. There are mosquitoes but not too bad.
In the evening we hang the bear bags, try a little fishing, explore the map, and chat until the mosquitoes get worse and drive us to our tents.
Sunday July 13
First day on the water. There is a very light breeze on Cedar Lake as we paddle our laden canoes around some islands and to a dam with a 960m (0.6mi) portage. It's a well worn trail and there is a large Outward Bound group behind us. Back in the canoes we paddle a short section of quiet river to the next portage of 685m (0.4mi). We're brave. We carry our gear to the put-in, the study the river as we walk back. It looks runnable from here, but there are some difficult spots and some places we cannot see. Back to the top of the portage trail, and the OB group is here. They watch us.
Nan and I are paddling my Minnesota II Kevlar tandem canoe, a great flatwater and portaging boat, but lousy in rapids. Xavier and Hukyun have a Langsford Nahani, also in Kevlar, but with more rocker and being shorter it is slightly better in the whitewater. Only slightly. Vickie, her son Logan, and Luke are in the rental Wenonah, a royalex boat with lots of rocker which can handle the whitewater quite well. They weigh 46, 55 and 65 pounds respectively. The OB group has good royalex whitewater boats.
Needless to say we are challenged. The first section is fun, then there's a break, then two more sections. Nan and I get through. Xavier and Hukyun come down next and get hung up sideways on a rock. Vickie and crew comes down, hits and dislodges them from the rock, but hangs up on the same rock. Xavier continues a short distance but gets hung up again, and have quite a time getting the boat free. Vickie's boat fills with water and is well pinned against the rock. Nan and I paddle out, I get out into the rapids, and help free the boat. There's a quiet pool just below here and we get to shore and sort it all out.
The next rapid stars with two powerful Vs and we need to get right immediately after. We can't, and Nan and I fetch upon a ledge. Xavier and Hukyun come down and flip above us. Vickie comes down and manages to get it right, but there's a big rock garden below and no easy way through. Over they go. Xavier and Hukyun free their boat, and, half full of water, comes down toward us on it's own, hits the Minn II and punches a 2” hole in it well above the waterline. I was out of the boat standing on the ledge, but Nan was still in. The impact threw her in. I grabbed both boats and with Nan's help managed to get them both to shore and emptied. Below here is a nasty rock garden so we work the boats along the shore and down to where Vickie is, and decide to not run any more of this.
Nan and I portage through the woods to our gear, while the others continue to work their way along the shore, and paddle over once they reach the pool. We lost two paddles, a tube of chapstick, and a pair of shoes. We recover one paddle, the chapstick, and one shoe. The rental boat came through unscathed. The Minn II got the aforementioned hole, and the Nahani got thoroughly beat-up, cracked the gel-coat in many places, broke some of the wood trim, and leaks. Duct tape to the rescue. It gets the nickname DT (duct tape)
At the next rapids we portage. It's getting late and we're all tired, so we take the first campsite we come to. Its a nice site, and we can see Radiant Lake a short way ahead. Us adults have sore shoulders, and I banged my shin on some rocks in the rapids. We're sore. The guys are a bit tired but have youth on their side.
Wednesday July 14
We're slow to get going this morning, and a group of paddlers goes by paddling upstream. “Who won the Cup?” they call out. “Spain” we reply. Some of them were not pleased with the outcome of the FIFA world Soccer Cup, and there was much noise as they paddled away.
We head out into Radiant Lake, which is quite shallow in many large areas, a sandy bottom with many freshwater mussels. At the end of the lake we pass under a bridge and to our first portage of the day. We have many, from 70m (very short) to 700m (0.4mi) long. The 70 we run instead. Aligning the boat for the shot through the V was tricky, but the rapid was easy.
But I'm not doing well. In addition to the banged shin from yesterday, I seem to have picked up a GI bug, complete with headache and low energy. There's also the soreness from paddling and portaging. Nan and I are packed light, and we get through the portages with me carrying the canoe then resting (and picking blueberries) while she takes two trips with the packs.
Camp tonight is at the bottom of Wagtail Rapids. The guys play in the rushing water and discover that leaches live there. There is much hooting and hollering as they try picking them off.
Nan and I awoke in the middle of the night and walked out onto the rocks jutting out from camp and enjoyed a fabulous show of stars, late summer/early fall constellations, and a few meteors.
Thursday July 15
The two words for today are Portage and Blueberries. Most of today we hike. The first portage is 1400m (0.9mi) past some falls and rapids. But we miss the sign for the beginning. Up ahead I see the river drop away. Yikes! The trail is an old railroad bed adjacent to the river, so we manage to beat the current and make it to shore, drag the boats and gear up the steep embankment, and begin the walk. We skip the next portage but are in and out of the boats all day. Sometimes we load the boats just to cross the river and resume portaging.
We're camped at the end of the next to last portage in the long series. We've had some light drizzle occasionally, and while hiking back to help with the second trip, my foot slips on a sloping rock and I fall on my already injured leg. Ouch!
Tacos for dinner for the three adults plus Logan. A big hit, but messy. The guys have instant pre-packaged backpacking food for all their breakfasts and dinners. But today Hukyun and Xavier have each caught a large mouth bass, so a fire is lit, the fish gutted and filleted, and cooked on a grate we found.
We had found a few blueberries earlier, but today Nan and I and Logan picked more than a full liter bottle of the tiny morsels. They'll be good with breakfast.
Friday July 16
Beautiful day. Our injuries are healing. Spirits are high.
One portage this morning, and we pass Access Point 23, and into Lake Traverse with a tail wind! Its odd to see people after a day and a half of having the whole world to ourselves. It's warm and sunny and we find a nice sandy beach for a swim and lunch. One side of the spit is deep and cool, the other shallow and warm.
The river continues wide and slow with more tailwinds. Nan spots a spring in the river bank and we gleefully fill all our waterbottles with very cold fresh delicious water. Two portages take us past Thompson rapids, and we're back into the river. At the next portage we carry all the gear and the two Kevlar boats, then Nan and I run them in Vickie's boat. Fun!
It's getting late by the time we reach Crooked Chute rapids with 1580m (1 mile) portage. So we leave the boats and carry our gear to the campsite about two thirds of the way. We'll get them tomorrow. The wind helps keep the bugs down until it stops around dusk. But we have brownies baking, so we stay up slapping until they're done.
Saturday July 17
We start by taking our gear to the end of the portage. There are people across the river! Then we hike up to the top, get the canoes, and shoot the first third. Here the two Kevlar boats get carried, while Nan and I with Luke in the middle run the Royalex boat down one more third before portaging it too. We meet a group of four portaging through, and leapfrog them a few times until they pass us at lunch and disappear ahead. They're packed very light and are doing each portage in one trip. We are carrying our packs through on one trip, then return (while picking blueberries) to bring the boats through.
On down the river, some paddling, some portaging. We have lunch on a high rock over the river with rapids beneath. They look runnable for a wild ride with a big standing wave at the end. We take the royalex canoe through first and get a nice splash as we go through. Next is the Minn II. I'm in the bow, Xavier in the middle, and Nan paddles the stern. The sharp bow of this boat (great for flatwater) slices into the roiling water, rolls, fills, and dumps us out. We swim.
At a section called The Natch we look up to 300m (985ft) cliffs on both sides of the river with turkey vultures riding the orographic lifts.
Camp is along Schooner rapids, and again we leave the boats at the top to fetch in the morning. We're in camp earlier than other nights. Dinner for us four is pizza cooked over an outback oven. Hukyun drools.
Sunday July 18
My leg is feeling worse, but today is mostly paddling. We walk back to the boats and paddle the rapids to camp, load them, and continue down the river. We run lots of rapids today and portage none of them. The crew has learned to read the river. They can tell the difference between standing waves and waves with rocks in them. Mostly. Even Nan and I get hung up once and finish the rapids backwards. Xavier and Hukyun swamp their boat once. We take a break for lunch and let the boat dry so we can put more duct tape on it. The river is also getting bigger and the rapids easier.
After Five Mile Rapids we enter Whitson Lake, and there are two moose! They're standing belly-deep in the lake munching on the lily pads. We stop and take many photos. One of them doesn't mind our presence, but the other swims to a farther spot to graze.
On a sand bar in the middle of the river, Xavier gets out to collect a few mussels, and Hukyun paddles the boat just out of reach so he has to swim out into deep water. He manages to board without upset.
One last short set of rapids, and we make camp on a sandy spit. It's a nice camp with blueberries and cranberries (the latter not ripe), a nice beach and a view. Nan, Logan and I paddle out into the lake for a bath, jump out of the canoe, and climb back in. As dusk settles the mosquitoes drive us into our tents.
Monday July 19
The end is in sight. We can see the final take-out from our campsite. Vickie has her bath early, but Xavier, Luke and Hukyun paddle a canoe out later, soap-up, then Xavier jumps out. When he tries to climb back in, the canoe capsizes and they're all swimming. It takes forever for them to figure out what to do about it, 'till finally Hukyun takes the bow rope and swims it in.
In an hour of paddling we're at the access point. We load the cars and head out. A great trip and we're a day early.
The end.
Friday, July 23, 2010
Wednesday, May 5, 2010
Red River Gorge with Nan
Journal
Red River Gorge, Kentucky
April 1-3, 2010
Gary, Nan W.
A first date is supposed to be a short introduction. We broke the rules. Since Nan lives in Tennessee and I live in Michigan, we had to make the hours spent driving worth it. And the red River Gorge makes a good midway point.
My daughter and her boyfriend were to drive to Florida on Thursday evening, so I shared the ride partway. We arrived at Miguel's near the Red at 10 at night, grabbed a pizza, and headed for the rendezvous at Gray's Arch. Nan was waiting with a hug in the dark. I unloaded my gear and the others drove off.
Nan had found a small tentsite not far off the trail, so under a fabulous star show we re-found it. Since there was no rain in the forecast and it was too early for bugs, I laid my tent down as a groundcloth, and we settled into our sleeping bags under the stars.
Dawn broke with birdsong and scant high clouds tinted pink, and we greeted each other and the world. It took almost no time to strike camp and return to the car, where we made use of a pair of picnic tables to cook breakfast and sort gear for our hike. We followed the Sheltowee Trace trail from Gray's Arch along Pinch 'em Tight Ridge, down to Chimney Top Creek. We enjoyed the views from the ridge, checked out the season's first wildflowers (bluets, trailing arbutus, hepatica, trout lilly, trillium, violets in four colors, bloodroot, others, and many which we didn't know) and stopped along the creek. Being Good Friday and fabulous weather, there were many people out, both dayhikers and backpackers.
We crossed the Red River on the swaying suspension bridge, and followed the Sheltowee north. At the head of one of the valleys we found a nice rock shelter for a cool lunch stop and more water.
A short ways farther brought us to the trail up Cloud Splitter peak. This trail begins climbing through a rhododendron forest then gets progressively steeper as bedrock is exposed. The crux of the climb is aided by the roots of a tree and a crack, and a length of rope to help the ascent. I started to continue up beyond this point, but Nan lead me around to the right, and into a giant split in the bedrock, varying from 2-3 feet wide and 20-30 feet high. I thought 'Wow!' but it got better. At the far end is a tree with steps notched into it, by which one climbs up and into a narrower part of the split, then down again, where the base opens out into a cavern, but the top, 40 feet above, closes down to a few inches. In another 50 feet we come out to a ledge in the cliff face. It's an amazing place to be, and a challenge to get to. The only way out is to reverse our steps.
Continuing north, the trail winds and climbs to Indian Arch, then descends along cliff bases and around the head of another creek. We pass the turnoff to Indian Staircase. There's a spur trail that connects this area to the Gladie Center with it's parking lots, so there are more people and the trail is more heavily worn.
We dropped down to a campsite on a beach by Gladie Creek, and before the sun dropped any more and the temperature fell, took a quick dip to rinse off the salt. Dinner was curried rice with vegs, and we chatted away the evening. High thin clouds have been moving in all afternoon, so when the stars finally came out, there were few of them. Nothing like last night. It was a long and exciting day of hiking, with lots of elevation change, and we were tired by the time we laid down in the tent and fell asleep.
There's a good layer of dew on both sides of the tent and on the ground in the morning, and it is chilly. So we strike camp and return to the trail. The day warms to a nice hiking temperature by the time we begin the ascent up Indian Staircase. We meet a father and daughter part way up. She's about 10, carrying a pack, and very bubbly enthusiastic about the hike. The view from the staircase is great, across to Indian Arch and down the valley toward Gladie. There are traces of trail from here along the cliff edge, then down into a very large rock house and along a ledge to a second overhang. In the ceiling of this shelter is a nearly perfect spherical cavity about ten feet across, and the echos inside are entrancing. It's a good place for lunch. The father and daughter arrive, and we vicariously enjoy their excitement when they find the echo chamber before they continue down the trail. A very brief rain keeps us at this magical lunch break, then off again. The trail perches precariously along this very high ledge, then eventually gains the ridgetop, and leads us back to the Sheltowee near Indian Arch. From here we find the unofficial trail to Adena Arch. It's a long and very narrow ridge, and the arch is small with interesting picture sandstone formations. The ridge continues, then the trail drops and becomes indistinct with many small side trails until we cannot continue. We try a few side trails, and finally discover the way down, a steep gully in the cliff.
Unfortunately this trail leaves us almost a mile East of the bridge over the river and the way back. We find nice off-trail hiking along the riverside until the floodplain gets pinched out and we climb up to the road and walk the pavement to the trail crossing, and back across the swaying bridge. Again we are near a parking lot and there are many others on the trail. But after the first serious climb we have the trail to ourselves again. There's a large rock beside the trail which, after a scramble, provides us a lunch spot. There's a few creek crossings, then we climb back up to Pinch 'em Tight ridge, and make it back to the car as the shadows are getting quite long.
Red River Gorge, Kentucky
April 1-3, 2010
Gary, Nan W.
A first date is supposed to be a short introduction. We broke the rules. Since Nan lives in Tennessee and I live in Michigan, we had to make the hours spent driving worth it. And the red River Gorge makes a good midway point.
My daughter and her boyfriend were to drive to Florida on Thursday evening, so I shared the ride partway. We arrived at Miguel's near the Red at 10 at night, grabbed a pizza, and headed for the rendezvous at Gray's Arch. Nan was waiting with a hug in the dark. I unloaded my gear and the others drove off.
Nan had found a small tentsite not far off the trail, so under a fabulous star show we re-found it. Since there was no rain in the forecast and it was too early for bugs, I laid my tent down as a groundcloth, and we settled into our sleeping bags under the stars.
Dawn broke with birdsong and scant high clouds tinted pink, and we greeted each other and the world. It took almost no time to strike camp and return to the car, where we made use of a pair of picnic tables to cook breakfast and sort gear for our hike. We followed the Sheltowee Trace trail from Gray's Arch along Pinch 'em Tight Ridge, down to Chimney Top Creek. We enjoyed the views from the ridge, checked out the season's first wildflowers (bluets, trailing arbutus, hepatica, trout lilly, trillium, violets in four colors, bloodroot, others, and many which we didn't know) and stopped along the creek. Being Good Friday and fabulous weather, there were many people out, both dayhikers and backpackers.
We crossed the Red River on the swaying suspension bridge, and followed the Sheltowee north. At the head of one of the valleys we found a nice rock shelter for a cool lunch stop and more water.
A short ways farther brought us to the trail up Cloud Splitter peak. This trail begins climbing through a rhododendron forest then gets progressively steeper as bedrock is exposed. The crux of the climb is aided by the roots of a tree and a crack, and a length of rope to help the ascent. I started to continue up beyond this point, but Nan lead me around to the right, and into a giant split in the bedrock, varying from 2-3 feet wide and 20-30 feet high. I thought 'Wow!' but it got better. At the far end is a tree with steps notched into it, by which one climbs up and into a narrower part of the split, then down again, where the base opens out into a cavern, but the top, 40 feet above, closes down to a few inches. In another 50 feet we come out to a ledge in the cliff face. It's an amazing place to be, and a challenge to get to. The only way out is to reverse our steps.
Continuing north, the trail winds and climbs to Indian Arch, then descends along cliff bases and around the head of another creek. We pass the turnoff to Indian Staircase. There's a spur trail that connects this area to the Gladie Center with it's parking lots, so there are more people and the trail is more heavily worn.
We dropped down to a campsite on a beach by Gladie Creek, and before the sun dropped any more and the temperature fell, took a quick dip to rinse off the salt. Dinner was curried rice with vegs, and we chatted away the evening. High thin clouds have been moving in all afternoon, so when the stars finally came out, there were few of them. Nothing like last night. It was a long and exciting day of hiking, with lots of elevation change, and we were tired by the time we laid down in the tent and fell asleep.
There's a good layer of dew on both sides of the tent and on the ground in the morning, and it is chilly. So we strike camp and return to the trail. The day warms to a nice hiking temperature by the time we begin the ascent up Indian Staircase. We meet a father and daughter part way up. She's about 10, carrying a pack, and very bubbly enthusiastic about the hike. The view from the staircase is great, across to Indian Arch and down the valley toward Gladie. There are traces of trail from here along the cliff edge, then down into a very large rock house and along a ledge to a second overhang. In the ceiling of this shelter is a nearly perfect spherical cavity about ten feet across, and the echos inside are entrancing. It's a good place for lunch. The father and daughter arrive, and we vicariously enjoy their excitement when they find the echo chamber before they continue down the trail. A very brief rain keeps us at this magical lunch break, then off again. The trail perches precariously along this very high ledge, then eventually gains the ridgetop, and leads us back to the Sheltowee near Indian Arch. From here we find the unofficial trail to Adena Arch. It's a long and very narrow ridge, and the arch is small with interesting picture sandstone formations. The ridge continues, then the trail drops and becomes indistinct with many small side trails until we cannot continue. We try a few side trails, and finally discover the way down, a steep gully in the cliff.
Unfortunately this trail leaves us almost a mile East of the bridge over the river and the way back. We find nice off-trail hiking along the riverside until the floodplain gets pinched out and we climb up to the road and walk the pavement to the trail crossing, and back across the swaying bridge. Again we are near a parking lot and there are many others on the trail. But after the first serious climb we have the trail to ourselves again. There's a large rock beside the trail which, after a scramble, provides us a lunch spot. There's a few creek crossings, then we climb back up to Pinch 'em Tight ridge, and make it back to the car as the shadows are getting quite long.
Journal
Shenandoah National Park
April 18 through 24, 2010
A week of springtime backpacking on the AT with my dad and a bunch of scouts from my old troop, with birthday cake at the end.
Sunday 4/18
I met the contingent from New Hampshire about 10:30 at the trailhead where the AT crosses 522 just southeast of Front Royal, Virginia. Once everyone had sorted out their gear, three of us shuttled the cars to the south end while the others began a three mile hike to the first shelter.
The drive southwest through the Shenandoah Valley was quite nice with farms and towns and everything fresh looking with spring green. Then we turned southeast and climbed the spine of the mountains up to the Skyline Drive. This is National Parks week, so the entry fee is waived. We left my dad's Volvo and the 15-passenger van there, and drove my car back to the north end. But we found a closer parking lot and only hiked a mile.
The shelter is a typical open front lean-to, but this one has a large front porch. The guys have taken it over, and we adults find places for tents. It's quieter this way too. It's chilly tonight with a strong wind. Dinner for Caroline, Dad and I is tacos, and I surprise them with ice cream for dessert. On a hike a few weeks ago I had packed up my tent with morning frost on it. The day was warm but when I unpacked it that evening, the frost was still there! I realized that if the tent could insulate frost like that, it could insulate a pint of Ben & Jerry's!
Monday 4/19
Breakfast was Dad's dehydrated casserole of bacon, grits, eggs and spices. We re-constituted it and it was quite good.
It's chilly this morning but the wind had abated. We hit the trail and soon warm up with the sun and exertion. The day is beautiful with blue skies, cool temps, and a light breeze We have views off spur trails in every direction.
At Compton Peak we all sit on a rock and watch turkey vultures and one pair of black vultures riding the orographic lift.
We made it to Gravel Springs hut. There's a nice strong spring here, a bit of a clearing, and tent sites in the woods. There are scattered clumps of ramps in camp and a large patch of them on the trail in. There is also a large patch of them on the trail to the hut. There's also bloodroot in flower, wild ginger, mustards, redbud, and many others.
Tuesday 4/20
Our trail today goes up and over Hogback mountain. Some of the guys are having foot blister problems and we're going slow. With two hours yet to go I notice the shadows are getting longer. So the stronger guys head back and take some of the weight of those affected, and we move faster down to Pass Mountain hut. Curry couscous with vegs, and impossible pie for dessert. The guys happily finish of the rest of the pie.
Wednesday 4/21
A gentle rain begins in the night and continues late into the morning. Breakfast is in the hut but we pack up in the drizzle and tents are wet. This is our longest scheduled day of fifteen miles. And we get a late start. Dad and some of the others decide to hike the Skyline Drive and cut off a mile and skip the climb up to Mary's rock with potential views into the inside of a cloud. I join those for the top, and we are rewarded with a short break in the clouds just as we reach the summit.
The plan is to join the others at Byrds Nest 3, but the rendezvous is missed and we loose another hour waiting. We don't make it the fifteen miles to Rock Spring. Instead we have a lovely tent camp on a shoulder of Stony Man. Some of the guys walk 0.7 miles to Skyland for dinner and back. Caroline, Dad and I have pizza made in camp. Then some of us take the short hike to the face of Stony Man to watch the sunset.
Thursday 4/22
We're behind schedule, so today will be a very long 16 miles. Again some choose the road part way and cut off a mile and a half. We stop at Big Meadows for lunch, but mostly we just hike today. We share Bearfence hut with two northbound AT section hikers for the evening, one of whom is hiking with two dogs.
Friday 4/23
The man's dogs were tired and were a bit reluctant to join him on the trail with their packs. We headed south. Charlie, one of the scouts, has shown an interest in the wild edible plants I keep finding. We chat about it as we hike and I find a few more. Toward the end of the day I gather a few leaves into a ziploc and give him a wild salad for his dinner.
Unbeknownst to us, my sister and mom have flown down, rented a car and are here on the Skyline drive. The trail crosses the drive at highway 33, dad and I are bringing up the rear, as just as we are about to leave the roadway and enter the woods, a car stops behind us and toots the horn. “It's probably a lost tourist asking directions” we both think. We turn around. It's mom and Sue! Dad had just been commenting that the pains were getting to him. “That's it, I'm done” he declares. We have only one more night on the trail and it's only three miles ahead. Then out to the cars in the morning. I toss my pack in the car and run/walk to catch up with everyone on the trail. I say goodbye at the next trail crossing just a mile ahead, then join the family for a drive north on the Skyline Drive and back to my car, then to dinner at an Italian restaurant in Front Royal.
Saturday 4/24
Breakfast sandwiches in the hotel, then we are joined by my brother and his wife, and we return to the Drive, and meet the scouts and their leaders at Big Meadows, where they've showered. The staff at the interpretive center there let us use their staffroom for a birthday cake and ice cream celebration. I turned 50 today.
Then end.
Shenandoah National Park
April 18 through 24, 2010
A week of springtime backpacking on the AT with my dad and a bunch of scouts from my old troop, with birthday cake at the end.
Sunday 4/18
I met the contingent from New Hampshire about 10:30 at the trailhead where the AT crosses 522 just southeast of Front Royal, Virginia. Once everyone had sorted out their gear, three of us shuttled the cars to the south end while the others began a three mile hike to the first shelter.
The drive southwest through the Shenandoah Valley was quite nice with farms and towns and everything fresh looking with spring green. Then we turned southeast and climbed the spine of the mountains up to the Skyline Drive. This is National Parks week, so the entry fee is waived. We left my dad's Volvo and the 15-passenger van there, and drove my car back to the north end. But we found a closer parking lot and only hiked a mile.
The shelter is a typical open front lean-to, but this one has a large front porch. The guys have taken it over, and we adults find places for tents. It's quieter this way too. It's chilly tonight with a strong wind. Dinner for Caroline, Dad and I is tacos, and I surprise them with ice cream for dessert. On a hike a few weeks ago I had packed up my tent with morning frost on it. The day was warm but when I unpacked it that evening, the frost was still there! I realized that if the tent could insulate frost like that, it could insulate a pint of Ben & Jerry's!
Monday 4/19
Breakfast was Dad's dehydrated casserole of bacon, grits, eggs and spices. We re-constituted it and it was quite good.
It's chilly this morning but the wind had abated. We hit the trail and soon warm up with the sun and exertion. The day is beautiful with blue skies, cool temps, and a light breeze We have views off spur trails in every direction.
At Compton Peak we all sit on a rock and watch turkey vultures and one pair of black vultures riding the orographic lift.
We made it to Gravel Springs hut. There's a nice strong spring here, a bit of a clearing, and tent sites in the woods. There are scattered clumps of ramps in camp and a large patch of them on the trail in. There is also a large patch of them on the trail to the hut. There's also bloodroot in flower, wild ginger, mustards, redbud, and many others.
Tuesday 4/20
Our trail today goes up and over Hogback mountain. Some of the guys are having foot blister problems and we're going slow. With two hours yet to go I notice the shadows are getting longer. So the stronger guys head back and take some of the weight of those affected, and we move faster down to Pass Mountain hut. Curry couscous with vegs, and impossible pie for dessert. The guys happily finish of the rest of the pie.
Wednesday 4/21
A gentle rain begins in the night and continues late into the morning. Breakfast is in the hut but we pack up in the drizzle and tents are wet. This is our longest scheduled day of fifteen miles. And we get a late start. Dad and some of the others decide to hike the Skyline Drive and cut off a mile and skip the climb up to Mary's rock with potential views into the inside of a cloud. I join those for the top, and we are rewarded with a short break in the clouds just as we reach the summit.
The plan is to join the others at Byrds Nest 3, but the rendezvous is missed and we loose another hour waiting. We don't make it the fifteen miles to Rock Spring. Instead we have a lovely tent camp on a shoulder of Stony Man. Some of the guys walk 0.7 miles to Skyland for dinner and back. Caroline, Dad and I have pizza made in camp. Then some of us take the short hike to the face of Stony Man to watch the sunset.
Thursday 4/22
We're behind schedule, so today will be a very long 16 miles. Again some choose the road part way and cut off a mile and a half. We stop at Big Meadows for lunch, but mostly we just hike today. We share Bearfence hut with two northbound AT section hikers for the evening, one of whom is hiking with two dogs.
Friday 4/23
The man's dogs were tired and were a bit reluctant to join him on the trail with their packs. We headed south. Charlie, one of the scouts, has shown an interest in the wild edible plants I keep finding. We chat about it as we hike and I find a few more. Toward the end of the day I gather a few leaves into a ziploc and give him a wild salad for his dinner.
Unbeknownst to us, my sister and mom have flown down, rented a car and are here on the Skyline drive. The trail crosses the drive at highway 33, dad and I are bringing up the rear, as just as we are about to leave the roadway and enter the woods, a car stops behind us and toots the horn. “It's probably a lost tourist asking directions” we both think. We turn around. It's mom and Sue! Dad had just been commenting that the pains were getting to him. “That's it, I'm done” he declares. We have only one more night on the trail and it's only three miles ahead. Then out to the cars in the morning. I toss my pack in the car and run/walk to catch up with everyone on the trail. I say goodbye at the next trail crossing just a mile ahead, then join the family for a drive north on the Skyline Drive and back to my car, then to dinner at an Italian restaurant in Front Royal.
Saturday 4/24
Breakfast sandwiches in the hotel, then we are joined by my brother and his wife, and we return to the Drive, and meet the scouts and their leaders at Big Meadows, where they've showered. The staff at the interpretive center there let us use their staffroom for a birthday cake and ice cream celebration. I turned 50 today.
Then end.
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